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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.