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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on Unesco Creative Cities List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a paste of flour.

Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".

The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.

An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul

The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".

With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.

"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs being served
Lucknow is renowned for its incredibly tender kebabs.

An Imperial Food Tradition

The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.

Frothy dessert a winter specialty
The city presents distinctive seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind frothy dessert, during winter months.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.

In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall serving masala chai
A renowned tea stall is celebrated for its milky spiced tea.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.

On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to take up the art.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

By

Frederick Middleton

Elara Verhoeven is a visual storyteller and curator passionate about showcasing emerging filmmakers and photographers.

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